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I made a decision early in the morning that would impact my entire day. There is a service available that transports backpacks to the next destination. I took advantage of this service today. There is a mountain ahead of me and the climb is quick and steep. My backpack weighs about 15 pounds and the thought of climbing to 1200 m with it wasn’t very appealing. For the purists on the trail using this service is viewed as cheating and it costs 5 euros as well. But I did it. I sent my backpack over that mountain in somebody’s minivan! Best decision I’ve made to date on the Camino. So that’s part of the back story for today’s journey. The other issue was my hat. I love my hat but it hasn’t proven itself to be very durable. My hat does not protect me from the sun. This Spanish sun permeates everything I own! My delicate still pasty white from the winter skin is trying to figure out how to coexist with the sun here. It affects me even under cloud cover. So, my ears are fried and peeling! The hat has also been affected by the soggy mornings and afternoon rains. As the days go by it started to go positively Amish. I thought perhaps it would recover but the next phase – in spite of all my reshaping efforts- was reminiscent of the Scarecrow in Wizard of Oz. I set out on June 1st without a backpack or a hat. Just an extra pair of socks, sunscreen and my hiking poles. I felt like I was sailing! Off I went in search of coffee and croissant which I found quickly and enjoyed. The morning walk was so pleasant and easy. I traveled through beautiful fields and the path was like walking at Antrim. The weather held although rain was forecast for most of the day. I passed through a couple of quaint villages and finally arrived in Villafranca at lunchtime. I carbed up at the local bar which was full of pilgrims. Many were discussing whether to stay overnight or take on the mountain. I of course was already committed by sending my belongings ahead. Just as I took off I caught sight of a hat in a store window and I thought maybe I should check it out. It fit and I liked the color so I bought it. Second best decision of the day! Up the path I started and it was challenging indeed. I was so happy I wasn’t lugging 15 extra pounds on my back! The scenery was changing. My ears were popping. Up up up! It was beautiful up there but very different. For awhile everything was so scrubby. After leveling out I found myself walking through forests that were currently being harvested. There was a wide dirt road with large logs stacked every so often. There were deep tire tracks and occasionally rocks and mud but nothing too difficult. I was happy we were level again. The first rain began warmly and gently and coming from behind. It was rather pleasant at first because I was very hot and sweaty. Then it cut loose and I got drenched. Regardless of my hat and rain jacket and quick dry pants I was soaked. Then it stopped and I started to dry out. An hour later a thunderstorm rolled into the area. I’m up there with nothing but trees – not a good idea. And I’m carrying two hiking poles that I’m beginning to imagine as lightning rods! I think this lasted 30 minutes and then it was over and the sun came out. The dirt road was really muddy by now but I pressed on. I trudged in the mud for probably another hour. I knew I was close to my destination however nothing was in view yet. And guess what? Another storm came roaring in – this time I was walking into it! It thundered and lightning all around. The wind was wild and then came the hail! Seriously! It was the size of peas and I just kept going until it was the size of marbles. I took cover under a big bush – maybe a lilac – and stayed until we were back to peas and then I went for it. I was 10 minutes from the monastery where I was staying as it turned out. I was so happy to see the church looming in the distance! After I checked in I was elated with the bonus of a dry backpack. Into the shower and into dry clothes and a sweatshirt and warm dry socks! They were serving a pilgrim’s meal and I ate it all! Garlic soup, mixed green salad, pork chops, French fries, pasta with tomato sauce and yogurt for dessert. Off to bed. 15 miles today. A mountain. A rainstorm. A thunderstorm. A hailstorm. I am so grateful for a hot shower, a hot meal and a warm bed. Buen Camino!

Day #15 Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado

For a change I did not walk in the rain today! My trek was 22.4km or about 14 miles. The trail meandered through beautiful countryside. I am definitely out of wine country and solidly in a region known for growing vegetables. There are still poppies everywhere! I walked through three little villages this morning. Oh! And the morning started by seeing my dear friend Rio in the coffee shop. I walked with him several days ago and we had a lovely chat. It was wonderful to see him and it’s possible I will see him again. He was far ahead of me but overdid it and is now resting a few more days. If I had a spirit animal on the Camino I think it would be a turtle! I plug along and it seems everyone races by me only to end up behind me from exhaustion or injury.

The afternoon was kind of a mix. Although the rain was held at bay I had a new Camino experience – wind. AND the last 8-10 km ran right along a major road. So it was like walking north 20 feet left of southbound 315 traffic. On a gravel road. Going uphill. Into the wind. So on my left were these gorgeous fields and on my right was traffic gone loco. The experience reminded me of a phrase we used in the 60’s – stop trying to harsh my mellow! Yikes! At any rate I’m very pleased that I completed that portion before I stopped for the night. I wouldn’t want to start my tomorrow with that. So until tomorrow my friends. Goodnight!

Azorfa to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Today was a magical mystical day of rain and color and texture. My photos do not begin to relay the colors I am seeing. The gray and the mist seem to wash it out of the picture. These images are forever in my brain and when I am so old I will spend my days by the fire walking the Camino in my imagination. And I will smile.

Today. I began in the rain and I ended in the rain. Between the beginning and the end were occasional dry stretches but not many. Today I walked 22 km which is maybe 13 or 14 miles. It’s amazing to me that I am completing two weeks on the Camino today. I am getting stronger everyday and I hope to increase my daily distance comfortably over the next week. I’d like to arrive in Santiago by the end of June. According to the waymarker outside the albergue Santiago is 562 km away. So I move forward everyday. I am so grateful for my family and friends and my life and this amazing journey! If you want to see the pictures follow me on Facebook- Kristy Yosick

I am woefully behind in my daily postings! I thank you for your patience and it is my intention to get up to date within two or three days so just bear with me! I am tired every night at arrival in the albergue. It seems that my pattern is checking in, finding a bathroom, finding my bed, finding the shower, finding food and finding my bed once again. My aim is to stay present while walking and taking care to be mindful of my steps. Some of that is meditative and some is for safety reasons. There are frequent knee injuries along the trail. (Rebecca Milnes!). I have conversations during the day but they tend to be brief and most social interaction happens at meal time. After a big day, a good meal and great friends I am ready to sleep! Hence, no blog posts the last few days! Tonight I am in Logrono. I had a chance to FaceTime with Kelley and the boys. That made me very happy 😊. However, i walked for the first time today in shorts and I have a terrible case of sun poisoning. Ugly rash all over the backs of my calves and both hands. It’s very itchy and painful. I will go to the farmacia first thing in the morning for cortisone cream and a different/better sunscreen. It’s that sunburn thing where you get all cold, shaky and nauseous. Ugh! So I’m off to try to sleep at 8:40. Tomorrow will come soon enough. I wish you all a lovely Memorial Day Weekend! My heartfelt thanks to all the men and women who have served our country in all branches of the military!

After a difficult Day #4 my friend and I enjoyed a pleasant walk along the river in Arre which led us out of town on our way to Pamplona. It really wasn’t very far to the old city of Pamplona. As it happened we entered the city on a holiday so the hustle and bustle was rather subdued. The old city was a fortress and it’s huge and beautiful. We stopped in a cafe for coffee and breakfast. The city began waking up and filling up with tourists, pilgrims and locals. The Running of the Bulls occurs in this section and one could imagine it easily. You could also get a sense of Picasso and Hemingway. Such a vibrant city! As we strolled through we ran into old friends. Such fun! On to Cizur Menor and on the way we ran into Roger and J from the night before. We stopped in Cizur Menor for an easy afternoon and then it rained buckets. Went to the bar for drinks and tapas. The albergue was attached with a 13th century church – breathtaking. The people that provide these beds for pilgrims are so dedicated. Amidst all the fun we were having the visit to the church brought us back to the Camino.

Oh! What a day! Donna and I had a delicious albergue breakfast and started out for Zubiri which was about 10km away. The walk was uphill and downhill but manageable and breathtaking. We stopped and aired our feet a few times and ate some fruit. We arrived in Zubiri around 2pm and enjoyed lunch with an Australian couple. After a rest we decided to go on. Zubiri wasn’t calling either of us so off we went. In Ilarratz we met Neil from South Africa. He began the Camino five years ago and fell in love while here. He never finished the Camino but he did return and marry his love. They bought an ancient church that they are currently restoring. They also have a 3 year old little girl. Check out Facebook to see the photos if you don’t see them here. The altar displays Pagan and Christian symbols. Ninth century dating has been confirmed! By the time we arrived in Larrasoaña I was winding down but I was confident I could make it to the next town of Akerreta. We were just ahead of the rain. Donna was full of energy and focused on Zabaldika which is a convent with an albergue run by the nuns. By the time we arrived in Akerreta I was tired and hungry. We were surprised to find the entire village closed. We did not anticipate Sunday and the fact that it was a Feast Day. On to Zabaldika. I was spent! By the time we arrived it was getting late and the convent was way up on top of a huge hill. I don’t have pictures because I could not spare an ounce of energy. There had to be 200 steps on the path straight up the hill. Donna went ahead to get us booked while I trudged along. I finally made it huffing and puffing. The convent was full! Yikes! The nun was so wonderfully helpful! She got on the phone and called the next Refugio which was run by monks. She booked us our beds and called a taxi. She conversed with the driver and put us in the cab and sent us off into the night. We arrived in Arre 12 hours after we left Viskarret! The pilgrims there welcomed us with open arms. I ate while Donna and our new friend and rescuer, Roger, walked up front to check us in for the night. I showered and went to bed feeling cared for by all the angels that surrounded me. I know there are lessons here. I’m certain they will be revealed in the coming days. Buen Camino!

Roncesvalles was a wonderful albergue located in a monastery that has been serving pilgrims on The Camino for centuries. There are more than 150 beds. I enjoyed dinner and breakfast with friends. I walked yesterday with Luciane from Brazil. I met Christine from Taiwan on the TGV coming from Paris. I met Lisa from Taiwan in Saint Jean. We enjoyed breakfast together before starting out on Day #3. We all knew we would lose contact at some point in this day. I had read that Camino relationships get deep very quickly and each person is there for you to teach you something or help you to understand something. We may or may not see each other again. We started out together but as the day progressed we said our “Hope to see you soon!”s and we drifted apart. I will hold these women in my heart forever.

Coming out of Roncesvalles the path was a mix of dirt and grass for quite a way. The topography was a welcome change! My goal was to be very gentle with myself. I had read so many times about injuries occurring in the first week due to over exertion. I walked with a Canadian named Donna. We talked and laughed and bonded throughout the day. We took breaks at every little stop. While our friends were doing a marathon we were having a stroll. Donna had anticipated a rest day and had previously booked a bed in Viskarret. Viskarret is a gorgeous small 12th century village. Sleepy little dot on the map with two hostels (albergue) and two bars. There was no waiting line for a room. Donna and I were the only lodgers at our albergue. Two people in our room! Bathroom only for us! So clean! The woman did all of our laundry – wash and dry! We had a lovely salad and cerveza while sitting in the sun. Lovely! Donna got a message from Linda (England) who stopped at the other albergue for the night so we hooked up for dinner. Such a lovely day and well deserved relaxation. It is the weekend after all. I had a chance to reflect and realized that for my energetically sensitive body, Roncesvalles had been overwhelming. The sheer number of pilgrims in the monastery was too much of a swirl for me. I’m not certain of the count but I heard rumors or nearly 200. I was a later arrival so I was relegated to the basement. The basement had three rooms and each room had 20 beds. Note to self – stick with the small stops if its possible. Viskarret rejuvenated me. It was like a tonic. What awesome beauty!

Thursday evening there were 40 plus pilgrims in Orisson. We enjoyed a wonderful meal and then we were asked to share our name, country of origin and the reasons we were walking the Camino. The entire globe was represented. Taiwan, China, South Korea, Australia, New Zealand, India, Brazil, Mexico, Canada, England, France, Italy, Sweden, The Netherlands, and the US. Our group was comprised of men and women, short and tall, overweight and underweight, young (20 something) and old (70 something), couples and singles, gay and straight, and many many eye colors, hair colors and skin colors and religions/philosophies. We experienced varying degrees of exhaustion caused by the hike to Orisson from Saint Jean Pied-de-Port. And our next challenge was to complete crossing the Pyrenees on Friday. Thursday we hiked just 8 km but we increased our elevation to 800m rapidly. Friday’s hike consists of 18km with a rise to 1400m. The tricky part is coming down into Roncesvalles. This was a physically difficult day. There were struggles and injuries right alongside the incredible beauty. The quietude was interrupted by birdsong, cow bells and sheep bleating occasionally. The quietude was also interrupted with people’s panting and groaning. For some people it was easy but not for most. Most struggled. Most had a lockjaw determination to accomplish this leg of the journey. Day #2 is tough. Guess what? We all made it. The physically fit 20 year olds and the not so fit 78 year old and everyone in between made it to Roncesvalles. It took some people all morning. It took some people all day. It did not matter. None of it mattered – not gender, age, nationality, race, religion, physical condition or anything else that separates us. We all made it. So why is that important you might wonder? It’s important because every step on this pilgrim path is a prayer for peace. We all took our steps.

As I imagined my first day on the Camino it was filled with metaphors for life and deeply philosophical and spiritual insights. 😂😂😂. Maybe that will come with reflection but I’m not there just yet. A succinct review of this day: The Pyrenees kicked my ass! I walked from Saint Jean Pied-de-Port to Orisson. This is a mere 9km – a bit more than 5 miles. It took me 3 hours! I don’t know the degree of the climb but it was dramatic almost constantly. Somewhere near the halfway mark the nicely maintained trail turned into an even steeper incline of grass, dirt and rocks. It’s been raining quite a bit here so it was a muddy and slippery mess the rest of the way. I’m not sure if I have ever perspired as much as I did this morning! I’m not aware of the elevation but the last bit I walked in the middle of a cloud and, of course, it rained! By the time I arrived at my albuerge I was soaking from the sweat and the rain, nose running and muscles (mostly glutes) screaming. Immediately had water and coffee and more water and more coffee. This was followed by a mildly warm shower for the maximum 5 minutes. Clean clothes and a bit of a nap followed the shower and hot tea and baguette with cheese followed the nap. Tonight I’m looking forward to a community dinner. I might add that I’m looking forward to both parts of that – community and dinner! My roommates are from Brazil, Sweden, Germany and The Netherlands. So many interesting people! Yesterday I made a connection on the train with Christine from Taiwan. She is meeting her cousin her for the Camino. The haven’t seen each other in 30 years! I had a lovely meal last evening with a young woman from Oregon and a young woman from Australia. They both went on through to Ronscevaux this afternoon and I imagine I will probably not see them again. I was, however, absolutely thrilled when Christine and her cousin walked through the door while I was drinking my coffee this afternoon! Again today I am without internet access. I am told this will change once I’m out of the mountains. Hence, you’ll see the post time delayed. And sorry about the lack of insight! LOL. It’s just 4:30pm but I can’t wait to eat dinner, hear stories and go to bed. Until next time!

Much to my amazement my departure date is here! It seemed so far off in the distance for so long and suddenly it’s today – right now! Holy Cow! A flurry of activity this morning including a jigsaw puzzle that needed completion, Henry and Owen to school, letters to mail, laundry to do and packing. I can’t believe all that I need for 56 days is packed into one small backpack! Vicki picked me up and we arrived at the airport with plenty of time for coffee and a bowl of soup. Thank you my Friend! And any moment I will be off on this incredible journey. Columbus to Toronto. Toronto to Paris. Train from Paris to Saint Jean Pied-de-Port. I’ll touch base with you once I arrive. Until then!